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Skoda 110R sill replacement

 
Author:
4578+8007 (32767)Daves (Administrátor)
     109318615 
Created: 12.01.2006 - Updated: 12.01.2006
Stuff needed :
Right and Left Skoda 110R sill, alternatively sills from Skoda100

Tools needed :
Angle grinder :)))
Drill
CO Welder
Basic tools

Possible problems :
Removing the old sills

Difficulty :
higher, two days

Story :

Sill replacement is one of the more difficult things. Firstly, we need to decide what is it that we want to replace. It can be the sills only, or sills and the internal stiffeners, eventually the whole floor....

The 110R sills are quite rare and therefore rather expensive. The price for one sill can be between 1000 - 2000 Kc. That is why I am going to mention the use of S100 sills, which are easier to get. However if you keep looking, you might be able to get S110R sills for something like 700 a piece, in rare cases 700 for both sills.

!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 
!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 


S110R sills

No we need to make clear what and where we need to cut off and then we can start our fire creation....

!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 
!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 
!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 


...of course, experts cut exclusively in the evening....to achieve the best visual effect :)

!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 
!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 


All done

!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 
!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 


Ok, now we take a look at the rest and we tidy it up so we can attach the sill.

!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 


If you cut the stiffeners out and do not have the original ones to put in, you can make them out of S120 stiffeners.

All you need to do is to connect two stiffeners together.

!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 
!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 


So now we can move onto the inserting part...

!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 
!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 


If you´ve cut the stiffeners too, you can plunge into the "house" of the rear shoulders...

!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 


If the car hasn´t fallen apart by now, we can keep on going.

If you are interfering with the car more seriously, stiffen it first and do it gradually, never all at once!

!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 


And now the main thing - fitting the sill in.

If you are not going to use a pipe jack or you´ve sorted it out in another way, the hole for pipe in the sill can be welded in.

!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 
!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 


If you do not have a spot welder, drill at least 6mm holes around the whole perimeter of the sill. Through these holes you can later spot weld the sill in.

After that fit the sill into the body and secure it with some clamps so it can´t move. I recommend fitting the sills in accordance with the body parts. It could be much more difficult to do it the other way around ;-) Take special care with the doors. Put them into an ideal position and arrange the sill in so that it fits exactly.

!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 


After you`ve made 200% sure that it is exactly where it should be, spot weld the sill in and weld the posts on.

!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 
!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 
!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 
!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 


If at any time you find out that the sill does not fit in properly, it will be better to cut and bend the door.
But in case that the sill fits in well and everything looks perfect, there is only one thing left for me to do and that is to congratulate you.

In case that your sill comes from S100 there are few ways how to attach it.

1) Leave the sill whole, cut and weld post starts only. This way, the mudguard is not going to fit over the sill. Most people cut the mudguard off in the place where it is connecting onto the sill and spot weld the mudguard to it.

2) Cut the sill in half, use the beginning and the end and weld it together. Part under the rear mudguard can be sorted out flexibly - it is going to stay hidden.

!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 
!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 
!Výměna prahů u Š110R
 


U sill, I sill, V sill ....
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